Monday, July 23, 2007

San Bartolo

On Saturday night, after dinner, we headed off toward San Bartolo. Mercifully, my mom and Toya had offered to wash the dishes if I took care of getting the food put away.

San Bartolo is a small fishing town and summer vacation community about an hour south of Lima. For a while a couple of years back it was also the hot night club spot for Lima's affluent youth. That distinction has now been lost to Asia, a very exclusive and expensive resort a bit further south, that has been surrounded by controversy due to discriminatory practices and having basically appropriated a beach, which by law are public.

San Bartolo is fairly quiet at this time of year, as it is midwinter and not exactly beach weather. Many of the houses will stand empty and restaurants closed until October, November, or even December, the austral spring.

My uncle Willy and aunt Betty found a great house there fairly cheaply several years ago, which came fully furnished, to boot! The family takes occasional trips there to spend the weekend at the beach or sometimes, like now, just to get out of Lima for a bit.

San Bartolo church

San Bartolo was where my nieces Pali and Rafaela were baptized, and the reception was held at the house. In the course of it, while playing on the roof, one of the children knocked loose the pipe to the water tank, sending streams of water into the house and knocking out the house's water supply. That meant, unfortunately, that the dozens of guests engaged in night-long eating and drinking could not flush the toilets. By morning it was pretty rank between the spilled beer and non-flushed toilets. Those of us who stayed there had to endure it, with no hope of a shower, teetbrushing, or even washing one's face or hands in the morning, only to find that those cousins who had stayed with Betty's brother down the street awoke to warm showers, hot food, and fresh papaya juice!

This weekend, we arrived around nine o'clock and settled in for the night, as you can see below:

Susana teaching the boys to play poker

The next morning my cousins Diego and Juancho, and I went for bread and eggs, and Diego fixed breakfast -more like lunch, actually.

Diego fixing breakfast

Nico and my cousin Guillermo ("Mito").
And, yes, that is a Hello Kitty beanie.

Later, we went down to give Nico a chance to get his fishing fix -one of the purposes of the trip, actually- before heading back to Lima.

The setting

The bait

The catch


Anonymous said...

is there a group that travels to san bartolo
is there a listing of rooms to rent
is there information on survival skills
approximate cost of daily living
it would be nice to know
buena suerte

Juancho said...


I don't travel there often. Needless to say, when it is summer in the USA it is winter in Peru and the off-season in the beach communities. Hence, most of San Bartolo is shuttered then. In any case, as my uncle owns a house there we haven'te ever had to look for accommodations.

San Bartolo is a lovely little town, with an active fishing economy. It has restaurants and lodgings near the beach, which is not rough at all due to its being in a protected bay. There are also a number of good seafood places near the market.

This page: has directions on how to get there by bus from Lima.

Additionally, a Google search with the terms 'san bartolo peru hostales' will turn up many listings.

Sorry I could not be of more assistance.


- Juancho