Saturday, January 28, 2017
Wednesday, July 27, 2016
Opened in 2014, Barranco Beer Company's brewpub has been a resounding success. From selling 50 liters of beer on their first night, beer sales are now in the range of 20 bbl per month, with weekend sales reaching s/. 7000, according to Rommel, one of the managers
The initial lineup of beers has been expanded and refined. Some favorites, like the "Presidente" heffeweizen" --renamed" Jefe Weiss"-- have been retained, others -like the dunkel-- have been dropped. In their place are new recipes for pale ales, IPA, and lagers.
Three years ago I lamented the absence of "heavier", "chewier" beers in their lineup. I must not have been the only one asking for them, as Barranco now offers at least one porter and has just released "Saca Tu Machete", an excellent 8.7% abv / 42 IBU imperial stout made with aji limo, cacao, and algarrobina.
Another beer that is worth mentioning, and one I hope they make part of their regular lineup, even if only seasonally, is the Pepino Punch saison. Made with pepino fruit, Pepino Punch is easily one of the best fruited beers I've ever tasted.
Barranco Beer Company
Av Almirante Miguel Grau 308
Saturday, July 9, 2016
Lima's newest addition to the growing Peruvian craft beer scene is Cerveceria Barbarian's taproom in Miraflores: BarBarian.
Located half a block from Miraflores' main park, on Calle Bonilla, BarBarian taproom has been open only since March, and already it is a popular, standing-room-only, joint late into a Friday night. It has a friendly, open atmosphere, and the back portion is dominated by a colorful mural and a wall display of several hundred beer bottles collected over seven years by the owners.
The twety-three taps offer a mix of Barbarian's own brews and guest beers from other Peruvian craft brewers such as Nuevo Mundo, La Magdalena, Cumbres, and Sierra Andina. All are available in 100-ml tasters, or in 200-ml and 400-ml pours.
In addition, there is a selection of bottled Peruvian craft and import beers available for consumption on the spot or to go (currently at a 30% discount relative to the in-house price!).
There is also a kitchen, offering burgers, chicken wings, and other pub-type fare, making this a good place for lunch, dinner, or a late night snack, washed down with quality beer.
Jacho and I had already had dinner at La Costanera 700, also in Miraflores, so we didn't eat at BarBarian -other than the complimentary cancha- but we did each enjoy some rather tasty brews!
Friday, July 8, 2016
The other day I attended one session of a multi-part, multi-day colloquium on Marxism in Latin America held at the San Marcos University.
The talks were interesting enough, but there was nothing particularly revelatory in them. Nonetheless, I was glad to have attended, but what really got my interest was the university campus itself.
The last time I had been there was, I think, 25 years ago, still during the war between the Peruvian state and the Shining Path guerrillas.
At that time, the university had been practically taken over by the Shining Path, who had infiltrated its student body and employees, and had cowed everyone into leaving them relatively undisturbed. Guerrilla flags flew over the campus and the walls of the classrooms were covered in red-painted slogans in support of their "People's War."
The government, meanwhile, stuck in fiscal crisis after fiscal crisis, and disdainful of the university, let San Marco's coffers become nearly drained, such that repairs went undone, salaries were low and late, and even basics such as desks or chalkboards were not kept up, nor the campus repainted --not that anyone would have dared erase the guerrilla slogans. A truly sad state for the oldest university in America (it was chartered in 1551).
Today, by contrast, despite signs left over from the recent university elections, the campus was neat, clean, and orderly. The atmosphere was truly relaxed, and young people milled about chatting and smiling.
It was neat, but also a little odd because of the contrast with all my previous experiences there. It was, though, nice to see.
Tuesday, July 5, 2016
This morning Wily, Helba, my dad, and I headed off to Lurin for lunch and to visit the new museum at Pachacamac.
Pachacamac is a 1400 acre archaeological site 40 km south of Lima at the edge of the Lurin Valley. It was first settled in about AD 200, and was one of ancient Peru's primary religious piligrimage sites for over a thousand years, until the Spanish Conquest.
The main idol of the temple of Pachacamac
The site was dedicated to the earth-creator god, Pachakamaq, who was worshipped far and wide across ancient Peru, and by many successive cultures, including the Ychma, Lima, Wari, and eventually, even, the Incas.
|The remains of the Palace of Taurichumpi, last Inca administrator of Pachacamac|
|Reconstructed Inca-period structures which housed the "chosen women"|
The site museum is pretty much brand-new, having been opened earlier this year and it is a big improvement over the rather small and wear-worn one that had been there previously.
The new museum does not have a great many objects on display, but those it does have are very nice pieces and are arranged and selected to give a very good impression of the cultures who occupied Pachacamac and of the special nature of the site for them.
All in all, it was a great visit.
|Inca feathered headdress|
|Wari-period ceramic "gourd" offering|
|Grave covering, with spndylus shells brought from Ecuador|
|Spndylus and cotton necklace, and silver miniature offerings|
|Inca-period, male and female gold figurines|
Monday, July 4, 2016
Long known for its cocktails and sandwiches prepared with house-made ham, the Superba has been one of Lima's favorite "old-school" haunts since its opening in 1938. (As for the name, many believe that it was originally "Superbar" and that the final "r" was dropped, but it has actually always been just "Superba".)
A couple of years ago, the original owner retired, and passed the management to his children. They've kept the place intact, while quietly turning it into one Lima's best spots for craft beer.
A sign on the bar states that they have 90 beers on hand , but the staff told me it is more than that. All of them are bottled (draught beer is not very common here yet), and while they may have a cooler in back somewhere, it looks like most are just kept on the shelves or counters at room temperature.
The beer geek draw however, is the couple of display fridges in the dining room, both of which are well-stocked with a pick of imported (mostly Belgian and Spanish) beers, and lots of Peruvian craft beers.
Just in the one, I counted beers from Cumbres, Sierra Andina, Beer Stache, Nuevo Mundo, Invictus, and a few others.
If one is in need of a good beer in the Limce/San Isidro area, the Superba is a go-to spot. Their traditional Peruvian mixed drinks are good as well, as are their sandwiches, of course.